In 1966, a Mexican-American teenage band released one of the era’s most unexpected smash singles and, in the process, helped lay the groundwork for garage rock, a style that would inspire musicians for generations. The oddest chart-topper of 1966 may not have been 96 Tears by ? and the Mysterians. That distinction could just as easily go to Staff Sergeant Barry Sadler’s solemn military anthem The Ballad of the Green Berets or the New Vaudeville Band’s theatrical throwback Winchester Cathedral.

Every summer, private gardens, garages and even apartment windows across Estonia transform into one-day cafés welcoming anyone who wanders by. Under a large canopy, strangers line up for lunch. Nearby, garden beds brim with cucumbers, strawberries, garlic and courgettes, while an apple tree casts shade over a table set with rye bread, homemade pickles and a steaming pot of seljanka, a rich tomato-based soup with ham and smoked sausage. Visitors choose from a modest printed menu, then carry