The wide Exe estuary drifts gently past the window as I recline in my train seat, watching swans, gulls, oystercatchers, and darting turnstones on the mudflats. After a hectic summer filled with administrative tasks, I’m embarking on a low-effort getaway through Devon by train, hoping for a restorative, no-fuss retreat.

Exmouth, a small and walkable seaside town, is easily accessible via the Avocet Line from Exeter. There's no need for a car or any travel stress—once you arrive, everything is within easy reach: sandy shores, cozy cafes, welcoming pubs, shops, scenic green parks, and the ever-changing sea views.

A short walk through colorful public gardens and squares brings me to the art deco-inspired Premier Inn, just ten minutes from the train station. The weathered façade shows signs of time and sea air, but the restaurant’s large windows offer lovely seaside views during breakfast. And conveniently, the open-top 95 bus to Sandy Bay picks up nearby.

After dropping off my bags, I head straight to Exmouth beach. The fine golden sand is traced with seabird prints. The day is warm, so I plunge into the sea almost immediately. The water feels perfect, though the current is assertive. I stay close to shore, gazing toward the spired Holy Trinity church and the town’s large Ferris wheel.

Later, I explore town on foot, which gradually turns into a relaxed cafe tour. Drawn by the scent of warm scones, I stop at Bumble and Bee in Manor Gardens for tea among hanging baskets. Just down the path, near lily ponds and magnolias, life-sized dinosaur models—the Dinosaur Safari—emerge from giant eggs, part of a 17-figure trail introduced in 2016. These tie into the local red sandstone cliffs, which are celebrated for their fossil troves and connection to the Jurassic Coast.

I pass bakeries scenting the air with fresh loaves, and Lloyd Maunder’s butcher shop where bacon sizzles on the grill. Nearby, in what once were stables and a cottage, I find the charming and cluttered Exmouth Museum, run by volunteers. Inside are artifacts like clay pipes, butter molds, and vintage garments—a delightful nod to the past.

Down by the marina, Fish on the Quay’s fishmonger offers fresh whelks. “Best in town—we cook them ourselves,” he boasts, to which his coworker jokes, “Only ones in town!” I try some by the water, then head to Land and Sea for grilled mackerel paired with tangy pickled samphire.

There’s something deeply soothing about slow walks through flower-draped parks and along the long, sandy beach. I pause for a free concert by Exmouth Pavilion, nodding off in a deckchair among palms and Michaelmas daisies. Feeling rejuvenated, I take a short bus ride (the 57 to Courtlands Cross) to visit the National Trust’s A la Ronde—an unusual 16-sided home built in the 1790s by cousins Jane and Mary Parminter, now nestled on the outskirts of town.

A la Ronde overflows with curious treasures and imaginative decor: a seashell-encrusted gallery that took a decade to finish, feather-made friezes, and walls covered in silhouettes and drawings. In the garden's orchard, croquet sets and shell-themed board games share space with a quaint sign inviting visitors to lie down and gaze at the clouds. There’s even a secondhand bookstore tucked away for book lovers.

I meander back to town on foot via a signed trail leading through meadows to the Exe Estuary Trail. Buddleia-lined paths hum with butterflies, while the sea air carries hints of briny seaweed. A chalkboard at Lower Halsdon Farm announces that their tea garden is open. I stop for warm scones with clotted cream from Langage Farm, and am struck by the quiet, interrupted only by passing trains and afar calls of birds.

The next morning begins with a refreshing swim under golden light, followed by breakfast at Heydays and Hangtime, two nearby beachfront cafes. I indulge in vibrant granola bowls and savory bagels filled with halloumi, rocket, and chilli jam. A few steps away lies the Maer Nature Reserve—a mix of dune grass and sandy paths, dotted with sea holly and yellow evening primrose. Another dinosaur figure stands sentry across the field, and I rest beneath a holm oak, soothed by birdsong overhead.

Through lush parks and leafy paths, I notice blossoming flora everywhere—agapanthus topping the cliffs and delicate pink cyclamen beneath sycamores.

For late lunch, I catch a ferry from the marina out to the River Exe Café, a floating establishment open only from spring to early autumn. Moored in the heart of the estuary, it's accessible solely by boat. I enjoy sea bream with capers and buttery potatoes, surrounded by peaceful, lapping water. Thanks to a last-minute cancellation, I snagged a table.

Nearby, cormorants perch like quiet sentries on a wreck. Local poet Jennifer Keevill, who writes evocatively of Exmouth’s sealife, tides, and coastal life, once likened the birds to “menacing dinner guests.” Her verses celebrate all aspects of the town, from its cliffs to kite surfers and swimmers.

Later, I return to the beach for a final swim and simple supper at the Premier Inn restaurant. Though not usually my first choice, I appreciate the convenience. The outdoor terrace, framed by lavender and marigolds, is actually a stunning place to watch the sun dip beneath the sea while enjoying hearty, affordable food.

On my final day, I’m inspired to hop on the seasonal boat to Starcross (available between April and late October), following a scenic route through Powderham Castle’s deer park, woodland chestnut groves, and marshy paths buzzing with warblers and the scent of water mint. From the ferry, I glimpse Exmouth’s charming skyline: a clock tower, quaint homes, and seaside cafes.

Back on the town’s side of the estuary, I end the day at Land and Sea with a rich Otter Ale and later a crisp brew on The Grove’s glass-paneled balcony, overlooking the shimmering tides. I feel any lingering worries drift away.

As twilight settles, I’m reluctant to leave. Longtime resident Geoff Crawford, who has traveled across the globe, shares his enthusiasm for Exmouth: “This is my favorite place in the world.” He recommends a few final local dining spots for future visits, like the hidden gem La Mar above the Beach pub, and Loluli’s Fire and Fish, an intimate tucked-away takeaway known for charcoal-grilled seafood.

Exmouth offers a peaceful escape for anyone who loves the sea. With gentle rambles, fresh seafood, and calming waters, it's as welcoming for adventurers as it is for daydreamers. Whether you explore or simply sit and unwind, this seaside haven is nourishment for the soul.