Visiting the Dolomites in winter for walking adventures means immersing yourself in the dramatic beauty of snowy peaks unlike any other in the Alps. But waking up to a forecast filled with heavy rain and thick clouds, it was tough not to feel a bit disappointed.

Still, being in Italy means that even gloomy weather doesn't have to spoil the experience. Nestled right on the Austrian border, about two and a half hours north of Venice, the 3 Zinnen Dolomites ski resort and nature park holds its charm regardless of the forecast. In typical South Tyrolean fashion, the area reflects a mix of cultures – officially Italian, but heavily influenced by Austria due to the Habsburg reign until 1918. As a result, most locations have both Italian and Austrian names, such as Tre Cime or 3 Zinnen. The region is also home to Ladin, an ancient Romance language still spoken here.

Among the five villages of 3 Zinnen Dolomites, I had chosen to stay in San Candido, also known by its Austrian name Innichen. The town felt straight out of a fairytale, with its onion-domed church and charming pastel buildings that could be found in cities like Salzburg. Even beneath the gray skies, its traffic-free center was inviting, lined with upscale shops selling leather and cashmere, and numerous delis heaped with delicious local specialties that make you dream of life in Italy.

From my balcony at the Hotel Leitlhof, perched above San Candido, I could monitor changing weather over the village ski slope, catching snippets of the Dolomites through drifting clouds. The five linked villages are easy to explore, thanks to reliable bus and some train connections that reach ski areas, cross-country tracks, and altitude trails — many of which don’t require snowshoes.

A scenic bus ride took me to Signaue, where I noticed hints of blue sky as the cable car lifted me to Stiergarten at 2,100 meters. Leaving the busy ski runs behind, I followed a marked hiking trail winding down the mountain. The only other tracks in the snow belonged to a small animal – perhaps a fox or hare. Clouds swirled around atmospheric peaks, vanishing and reappearing as if part of the performance. In that quiet snowy scene, the ever-shifting mist seemed just as enchanting as the jagged mountains themselves.

Silence wrapped the landscape as I wandered into pine woods, the snow whispering beneath my boots. Hunger nudged me toward lunch at Skihütte Henn-Stoll (also known as Baita Pollaio) near the cable car base. There, I indulged in a comforting plate of cheesy knödel or canederli, swimming in melted butter and served with a caraway-scented cabbage salad. A delicious taste of traditional Ladin mountain fare.

By late afternoon, March’s extended daylight revealed more of San Candido, just in time for the evening stroll followed by drinks. The sun finally peeked through, bathing the mountain range behind the alpine rooftops in golden light before fading into moonlit skies. It was pure magic.

The next day began with a ride to Versciaco (Vierschach), another spot in the ski area. At the summit of Helm (Monte Elmo), I felt as though I had stepped into a storybook – a snow-covered path through pine forest that invited peaceful wandering and thoughts of lunch.

In the back section of Helm Restaurant, past the self-serve counters, was a quieter gourmet area that offered richer flavors with only a slight increase in price. I savored dense maccheroncini in veal ragù with porcini mushrooms and crushed hazelnuts, accompanied by Schüttelbrot – a rustic rye flatbread seasoned with cumin and fennel. The bold, earthy tastes were a perfect match for the cloudy view outside.

On my final morning, I woke to a scene straight out of a winter postcard: snowfall had cloaked everything. I caught the bus to Val Fiscalina for a walk through larch forests. Being Saturday, I was joined by many fellow walkers all heading to Talschlusshütte – a cozy wooden restaurant open from Christmas through Easter. Locals had warned me to arrive early since its fame has grown, particularly after it became known that Jannik Sinner, now a top tennis player, was the son of a former chef there – though he’s no longer cooking.

Whomever was in the kitchen knew their stuff – the bacon knödel served in aromatic broth was deeply satisfying. A generous plate of penne with a vegetarian ragù of aubergines, courgettes and mushrooms followed, leaving me content and full.

Warmed by a local grappa reminiscent of herby génépi, I made my way back toward the bus stop. The clouds began to clear, slowly unveiling the peaks one by one. And then, just before my departure, the legendary three towers – the Tre Cime or 3 Zinnen – made their grand appearance. I let out a joyful cheer, then turned back for one last look… and they had vanished once more.

My visit was arranged by 3 Zinnen Dolomites. Room rates at Hotel Leitlhof start from €287 with half-board included.