An eco-friendly light show, refreshing strolls, and Jane Austen: ways to celebrate the season in Hampshire
The wind howls and rain falls as I wave my UV torch around, scanning for glimmers in the darkness. A bright red spider web catches my eye; nearby, phosphorescent fungi glow softly. Then, I spot Timothy, a luminous tortoise, tucked away by the wall. I’m wandering through the gardens of Gilbert White’s House in Selborne, Hampshire, which is hosting a rather unique light trail this month.
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Gilbert White (1720-1793), often called the father of ecology, is renowned for being among the first to study living organisms in their natural habitats instead of dissecting them in labs. He was instrumental in discovering the ecological importance of earthworms, laying the groundwork for the food chain concept, and identifying various species, including the chiffchaff, noctule bat, harvest mouse, wood warbler, and willow warbler.
It’s highly appropriate, then, that his former home, now a museum, has embraced sustainability for its eco-conscious light festival (£12.50 adults/£9 children, running 4:30 pm–8:00 pm on Thursdays to Saturdays until 21 December). Light trails have become a seasonal staple, and the Jolly Festive site lists over 125 events across the UK for 2024—from botanical gardens to historic estates and even city streets. However, light pollution can pose risks for nocturnal wildlife. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), for instance, urges minimal garden lighting to reduce harm—although it still hosts RHS Glow, an evening light display at all five of its gardens. Irony noted.
The lighting at White’s gardens, however, adheres to strict eco-guidelines: low-intensity solar and renewable-powered lights with restricted hours. If you expect the grandeur of Blackpool Illuminations or the dazzling spectacle of Christmas at Kew, you might find this more restrained event underwhelming. But those seeking to spot “glow-worms” and subtle depictions of woodland creatures surrounded by gentle twinkling lights will be delighted. Yes, there’s even a modest light tunnel perfect for selfies.
This festival also gives visitors the opportunity to explore the museum’s charming interior after dark. The library, study, bedroom, and great parlour—once used for social gatherings—are all open. Creations by artists add to the ambiance, including animal-shaped paper lanterns, intricate willow sculptures, and a delightful visual of a wiggly worm. There’s also music-poetry honoring swifts and an enthralling installation by William Lindley, showcasing the house, local terrain, and its fauna. Refreshments? The cafe offers warm mulled wine and hot chocolate, while the Jubilee Tap pub across the road serves beer brewed in White’s original on-site brewhouse, reopened as a nanobrewery in 2021.
For a longer visit, consider exploring more of this underrated part of East Hampshire. While not as famous as the New Forest, it’s brimming with seasonal charm. Next on my agenda was another converted historical home: Jane Austen’s House in Chawton, a quaint village just four miles from Selborne. This is where the author spent the last eight years of her life, crafting and refining all six of her novels. It’s humbling to see the small writing space in her dining room, the drawing room where she practiced piano and read aloud, and the bedroom she shared with her sister Cassandra. The home is tastefully adorned for Christmas, Regency-style, with paper ornaments, evergreen garlands, and ribbons. Visitors can also enjoy an audio recreation of Emma’s Christmas Eve scene (on until 7 January). The December candlelight tours are sold out, but bookings remain available for 28 February and 28 March.
Afterward, we braved the elements to embark on a scenic 4.5-mile Austen-themed circular walk. The trail winds past Chawton House Library, once known as the Great House, where Jane’s brother Edward resided. From festive displays inspired by classic tales to stunning Glimmering Gardens light installations (open until 5 January), Chawton House is alive with the Christmas spirit (£12.50 adults/£6 children). Workshops for wreath-making and decorating are also available. Midway through the walk, we stopped at the cozy Rose and Crown in Upper Farringdon, and later returned to Chawton for a drink at the Greyfriar pub.
For a more whimsical excursion, hop aboard a heritage steam train on the Watercress Line, connecting Alton and Alresford. Currently, it’s hosting Steam Illuminations—an interactive light and sound experience (£32pp, free for under-twos, until 4 January). Alresford itself is located around eight miles from Winchester, nicknamed "England’s Christmas capital," with its popular German-style market nestled within the Cathedral Close (open until 22 December).
Later, we soaked up more Christmas cheer at Hinton Ampner near Alresford, a National Trust property. Its theme this year, "An Enchanted Christmas," turns its rooms into scenes from a woodland ball, complete with a gingerbread village and Santa’s workshop. Outside, illuminated trees, a Christmas sleigh, and Santa’s sweetshop await. Also on-site are a secondhand bookshop and a cafe serving festive treats like turkey sandwiches and mince pies with brandy butter. We followed up the visit with a refreshing four-mile estate walk spanning woods and farmland.
If you’re looking for a cozy stay, plenty of charming inns in the area offer rooms. The standout is the Anchor Inn in Lower Froyle, just five miles from Alton. Steeped in history, with parts dating back to the 14th century, this inn features wooden floors, low-beamed ceilings, roaring fireplaces, and five atmospheric Tudor-style bedrooms (doubles from £81). Their menu is brimming with Christmas options—my artichoke risotto with chestnuts and gremolata (£15.95) was divine, as was my partner’s turkey and ham hock pie with all the fixings (£19.95). They also serve festive afternoon teas, sharing boards, and a set holiday menu, and even host themed breakfasts with Christmas movies (14 December).
Another great option is The Thomas Lord in West Meon, roughly five miles from Hinton Ampner. Guests can cozy up by the fire for bar snacks—my pick was the Korean-spiced cauliflower (£5.80)—or enjoy a festive three-course meal in the dining area (£39.95). The property also offers five rustic cabins for overnight stays (doubles from £83.30). Plus, they host a variety of festive events, from caroling evenings to quizzes and holiday parties.
The stormy weather never let up during our weekend, but we left Hampshire feeling more inspired and festive than ever, with plenty of decorating ideas to take home.
Accommodations were graciously provided by the Anchor Inn and The Thomas Lord. For more information, visit Visit Hampshire.