Why Visit Now

Leith, Edinburgh’s historic port district, has long been a gateway for people, trade, and innovation entering the city. It’s where the Water of Leith river meets the sea, and when the sun shines and the bars and restaurants along the Shore come alive, it feels magical. After moving here 13 years ago, I’ve had the pleasure of witnessing its evolution. Today, Leith is a creative powerhouse, bustling with artists, musicians, designers, and startups, not to mention a thriving culinary and bar scene. The extension of the tramline from central Edinburgh in 2023 has only added to its appeal.

The gritty Leith depicted in Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting is a thing of the past, but calling it fully gentrified wouldn’t tell the whole story. Two recent local efforts highlight its unchanged community spirit: one successfully opposed a major bookstore opening next to beloved indie Argonaut Books, while the other reinstated benches removed from a public square. Leith has room for both the old guard and the new wave.

Part of what anchors me here is the close-knit, village feel that blends seamlessly with urban vibrancy. One day I’m digging in the soil of the Community Croft, the next I’m engrossed in an art show, enjoying live music, or dining in a world-class restaurant. For travelers, Leith offers an authentic Edinburgh experience—free from tourist clichés and full of genuine local character.

Where to Eat and Drink

Leith's dining scene is delightfully diverse, ranging from high-end restaurants to cozy cafés, timeless pubs to trendy cocktail spots. Recent openings reflect the area's innovative streak. “Leith has a blend of the traditional and the new—it’s diverse, rich, and feeds all kinds of people,” says chef Barry Bryson. In 2025, he launched Barry Fish, a seafood-focused eatery on the Shore that quickly became one of my top picks. The soft green interiors are inviting, and dishes such as trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti are must-tries.

In 2024, chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband Shaun opened Ardfern, a casual extension to their fine-dining spot, The Little Chartroom. I’ve enjoyed everything from brunches to late dinners there. Don’t miss their hash browns—they’re often topped with unexpected but delicious combinations like sprout kimchi and fish sauce aioli. “The community here is incredibly inspiring,” says Shaun.

Around the corner, Dogstar is the latest venture from chef James Murray and the team behind Nauticus bar. After a decorated career in fine dining, Murray wanted to reconnect with his neighborhood. “I chose Leith because I wanted to serve the community around me,” he explains. There’s a tangible sense of pride among locals. The energy is infectious as I sit at the bar enjoying grilled shellfish and warm focaccia in anchovy sauce. This restaurant is a gem.

Cultural Highlights

To dive into Leith’s creative pulse, start at Custom Lane, a collaborative hub housed in an old riverside Custom House. Inside you’ll find artist studios, exhibition spaces, and a great café. At Bard, part gallery and part shop, designers Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens curate a stylish, home-like setting showcasing contemporary Scottish design. It’s an inspiring space, no matter your interior design budget.

Just across the river lies Brown’s of Leith, the latest venture from the Custom Lane team. This three-story former warehouse has been transformed by GRAS architects into a flexible space that balances creativity with community. The main floor brings together three standout food spots—ShrimpWreck for seafood, Haze for wine and nibbles, and Civerinos for pizza—set in a vibrant, relaxed environment. “We wanted to create a space that uplifts local creativity,” says architect Gunnar Groves-Raines. Restaurateur Joseph Radford of Haze adds, “Leith’s personality is strong. We aim to complement it, not change it.” Evening visits here are atmospheric and social, with shared tables filled with oysters, mussels, and flavorful small plates.

Several other artistic venues in Leith are worth your time. Spaces like Drill Hall, The Biscuit Factory, and Coburg House Art Studios are home to dynamic events and exhibitions. Excitement is also building around Leith Theatre, a 1930s art deco treasure now set for restoration thanks to a successful community-led campaign. Temporary performances and festivals have only hinted at the venue’s potential.

Shopping

Leith has an excellent range of independent boutiques. Argonaut Books, located in the renovated train station, is a warm, bookish spot with a café and frequent literary events. For unique gifts, pop into Logan Malloch, Flux, or Handsel along Leith Walk—all filled with work by local creatives. Wine lovers should seek out Bludge, a tiny shop packed with interesting bottles.

Don’t Miss

While many visitors flock to the Royal Yacht Britannia to see how royalty vacations, I recommend the Port of Leith Distillery instead. This striking nine-story facility works vertically, with whisky production from top to bottom. Take a tour to see the process in action, then head up to the rooftop bar for breathtaking views over the Firth of Forth to Fife. A walk along the Water of Leith trail is a great way to unwind, especially if you end at one of the bustling taprooms nearby. Leith’s craft beer scene includes top-notch spots like Moonwake, Campervan, and Newbarns—all perfect for a fresh pint.

Where to Stay

Malmaison Edinburgh offers sleek riverside rooms from around £77 (room only). For a unique overnight experience, book a cabin aboard Fingal, a former lighthouse tender transformed into a floating boutique hotel, permanently docked in Leith (rates from £269 B&B).