Chasing the ultimate Danish treat in the heart of Copenhagen
Open-faced sandwiches (smørrebrød), seasoned meatballs (frikadeller), and crisp pieces of pork belly (stegt flæsk) are just a few of the classic dishes that food lovers seek when visiting Denmark. Yet perhaps no treat represents Danish culinary pride more than the famous Danish pastry. With so many bakeries in Copenhagen alone, how does one choose the best? As a longtime Copenhagen resident and pastry enthusiast, I took on the challenge of finding the city’s finest Danish pastry.
Let’s begin with a surprising truth: what many know as a "Danish" pastry did not originate in Denmark. Locally, it’s called wienerbrød—meaning Viennese bread—after the lamination technique brought from Austria. The term “Danish” is too vague here, as there are many distinct varieties. The familiar round pastry with custard in the middle is called a spandauer. Then there’s the tebirkes, a folded pastry often filled with almond-like remonce and topped with poppy seeds; the frøsnapper, a twisty pastry sprinkled with seeds; and the snegl, literally meaning “snail,” known internationally as the cinnamon swirl.
For comparison, I focused on the snegl. It's my personal favorite, and it’s a staple in nearly every bakery. The ideal snegl should have a crisp outer ring with a soft, dense center—the part most cherished by locals—and a rich note of cinnamon and sugar.
In recent years, a wave of pastry chefs departing high-end kitchens has opened a flood of new bakeries in Copenhagen. This has sparked a quiet rivalry between traditional and modern establishments. While old-school bakeries are marked with a golden kringle sign hanging outside, modern ones dazzle with minimalist interiors and stylish displays tailored for social media.
This evolution is part of the charm for me—innovation blending with tradition. Sometimes changes push boundaries, but other times they add something wonderful. I explored both the vintage, hygge-filled locations and the sleek, contemporary shops. Embracing both worlds is part of the fun!
Sankt Peders Bageri
The oldest bakery in the city, founded in 1652, Sankt Peders lies along a cobblestone street in the Old Town. A golden kringle hangs above the entrance, and the air smells temptingly of cinnamon. I go for their classic snegl, featuring white icing on a flat, round swirl. Though crisp on the outside and tender within, the overly sweet icing and lack of height leave it falling short of greatness. Price: 30 kroner (approx. £3.50), Score: 5/10
Brød
In the lively Vesterbro district, Brød offers a modern, relaxed vibe. Outside, prams are parked and bikes roll by. The young baker proudly steers me to sample a snegl along with a spandauer and tebirkes. Each is balanced in sweetness, but the snegl steals the show, with its tall, golden layers and wonderfully gooey center. Price: 30 kroner, Score: 7.5/10
Juno
Frequently ranked among the city’s best, Juno was opened in 2017 by Emil Glaser, a Swedish pastry chef formerly of Noma. Though there’s no seating, I grab a signature cardamom bun to go. It’s beautifully braided, sparkling with sugar, and infused with spicy cardamom. Slightly chewy, sweet, and utterly addictive, it’s tough to stop after one bite. Price: 34 kroner, Score: 9/10
Discount 365
To give a fair overview, I also tried a bargain option from Discount 365 supermarket. The snegl here is cold, thin and heavy on the crunch. While it features a swirl of icing, it lacks the softness and flavor of cinnamon. Instead, there’s an unpleasant aftertaste, reminiscent of margarine. My advice: spend a bit more. Price: 12 kroner, Score: 1/10
Albatross & Venner
At the popular Torvehallerne food market, Albatross & Venner draws a cue as it opens. Their wide selection includes not only cinnamon options but savory twists as well. I select a snegl made with coffee syrup. Though a little uneven in shape, it’s moist and flavorful. Still, the contrast between the crisp outer and soft inner layers is missing, which keeps it from topping the list. Price: 35 kroner, Score: 6.5/10
Lagkagehuset
Though mostly known as a bakery chain, Lagkagehuset remains a prominent fixture in Copenhagen. The interior is sleek and modern, and the pastry display offers variety. Critics may frown upon its mass production, yet I appreciate the consistency. I try their direktørsnegl, a cinnamon swirl topped with chocolate. It’s sticky, rich, and indulgent. Possibly too sweet for some—but I’m not complaining. Price: 27 kroner, Score: 8/10
Riviera
Located near Nørreport, Riviera is the creation of Italian chef Chiara Barla. The minimalist décor complements its reputation for perfect tebirkes. Behind the counter, bakers expertly shape pale dough. After many tastings, I declare this my top pick: the cinnamon snegl is glossy and sticky with an orange glaze; the spandauer features smooth, lemon-scented vanilla custard; and the tebirkes blends doughnut-like softness with traditional flavor. Outstanding. Price: 35 kroner, Score: 10/10
Laura Hall writes about Nordic life and culture in her series Modern Scandinavian